Bulgaria has changed swiftly over the last decade, though in the villages you can still find folk who ride the donkey to work, eat home-grown potatoes and make their own cheese. The difference now is that they wash it all down in front of a satellite TV.
When Bulgaria ran away with the topsy-turvy capitalist circus, no-one told its people they were swinging without a safety net. But what the visitor encounters now is a country struggling valiantly to adapt and people who remain remarkably hospitable in the face of social and economic chaos. Urban Bulgaria, especially Sofia, is much changed.
Detour to Plovdiv
Plovdiv has some of Bulgaria's best Roman-era remains, Byzantine churches, mosques and Bulgarian National Revival buildings. Modern Plovdiv is fascinating in its own right, with a mix of Greek, Turkish and Armenian influences.
Suggested Itineraries: Bulgaria
Bulgarians observe a number of traditional customs. Trifon Zarezan on February 14 is the ancient festival of the wine growers. Vines are pruned and sprinkled with wine to ensure a bounteous harvest.
On March 1, Bulgarians give one another martenitsi, red and white tasseled threads that are worn for health and happiness at the coming of spring. When wearers see their first stork of the season, the martenitsa is tied to the nearest tree.
Sightseeing in Sofia
From USD $31.27
Get to know Sofia's most famous points of interest, from Alexander Nevski cathedral to St Sofia church to King's palace. It's an excellent introduction to Sofia.
Rila Monastery
From USD $132.90
Rila Monastery is a highlight of Bulgaria. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and contains remarkable frescoes and folk art. Check it out on this day trip from Sofia.
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