Day 1: What's the Craic?

The one Irish word it is essential you know is 'craic'; it's all about being with friends, sharing a joke, good conversation, perhaps even a pint of Guinness - or three. Dublin is a fun city. The Irish know how to have a good time - and then tease you about it, or during it. Bringing a sense of humor is essential on any trip to Dublin. A good way to ease yourself into the culture is to take a guided walking tour - the witty banter will familiarize you with both the city and its people. For a wider view, take the hop on hop off bus tour of all the major sites.

A major attraction is the Guinness Storehouse, production site of Guinness since 1759. Don't fret there will ever be a shortage - the lease on the place is for 9000 years! Sample the black stuff in the Gravity Bar which has a 360ý view over Dublin.

Wander across to Temple Bar, the famous maze of cobbled streets in the heart of Dublin and one of Europe's best-known entertainment districts. Browse the shops, then slip into a pub and make some new friends. But be warned: on weekends the area gets very crowded and very rowdy! To further your introduction to Dublin, how about a night of traditional food, stories and music, a literary pub tour celebrating the rich writing history of Dublin, or a tour of pubs and Irish music.

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Day 2: A turbulent and long history

Lift up your aching head, it's time to see the historical sights of Dublin. Start south of the river, the affluent side, at Trinity College, Ireland's main university. The leafy, beautiful campus is a masterpiece of Georgian architecture. Head for the Old Library and see the Book of Kells, one of the oldest books in the world. Take a tour of the campus with its graduates. Then head opposite to the impressive Bank of Ireland building - once the Irish Parliament. These days parliament is housed in Leinster House, a grand Georgian house built in the 1740s. Next door is the National Library, the place to go to trace your own Irish roots. Climb up to Dublin Castle - the Record Tower dates from 1258 - and visit the Chester Beatty Library, a world-renowned collection of world artifacts. The National Museum has the finest collection of Bronze and Iron-Age artifacts, and the Collins Barracks Museum tells the story of Ireland's social, economic and military history.

Suffering an overload of information, you'll need some sanctuary by now. Head for St Stephen's Green, or Merrion Square. While lying amongst the flowers, imagine the refugees of the potato famine of the 1800s living here, existing from a soup kitchen, or the British Embassy burning down in protest in 1972. Ireland's history has been turbulent and bloody, from the Viking raids on the Celts, to the Norman invasion of the 12th century, to the Easter Uprising against the British in 1916, and eventual independence in 1921.

End your day with a wander of the salubrious shopping area of Grafton Street, then head across the River Liffey to the often overlooked north side of the city, to O'Connell and Henry Streets.

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Day 3: Green Hills and Majestic Cliffs

Although it's easy to while away day after day storytelling and enjoying the craic, Ireland is more than just Dublin. It's time to leave the city limits and see some of those famous green landscapes. Rail transport is great in Ireland so think about leaving the driving to someone else so you can enjoy the view. Head for the popular Wicklow Mountains, to County Cork where you can kiss the Blarney Stone, to the Ring of Kerry or the dramatic Cliffs of Moher. Or, if its things mysterious you crave, what about Newgrange - older than Stonehenge and just as unfathomable. If you have more than a day at your disposal, see it all!

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