Carouge is where Geneva goes to unwind. It was ever thus: what is now a suburb started life outside the then city walls in the mid 18th century as a parcel of land belonging to the King of Sardinia, who hoped it would provide refuge for Catholics and other minorities from puritanical Protestant Geneva. The area still bears the imprint of the Italian architects he drafted to design the area.
This charming district has developed over the years into something of a bohemian center, with all sorts of artisanal activity going on during the day and a wide selection of bars and restaurants to occupy you through the night. The Place du Marché forms the heart of the district, with its quirky Italianate church at one end and a regular produce market which has been in operation for over 300 years.
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From the main railway station, Gare Cornavin, take tram number 12 or 13 and get off at Marché, the center of Carouge.