About 13mi (20km) from Selçuk is Kusadasi, which, at first glance, is as much of a shameless tourist trap as any cruise-ship port. In summer, it becomes swollen out of all recognition with package holiday-makers from Europe.
However, outside high season it is a laidback town with some lovely beaches and stunning views. A room at a nice pension with a rooftop terrace makes a great base for excursions to the ancient cities of Ephesus, Priene, Miletus and Didyma. Plus, the nightlife is cheesy but full on, and the city's taxi fleet includes a number of very cool, bright-yellow 1960s Chevrolet Impalas.