Naples is simultaneously one of the most exciting and challenging cities to visit in Italy. The historic center is a living museum, with roads dating back to Ancient Rome still in use today, but this is no staid museum-like setting. Scooters and cars zip down those roads at break-neck speed, so you had better be paying attention to the present while you're admiring the past. There are no red velvet ropes between you and the gritty cacophony that is Naples, which is exactly how those who love the city prefer it.
With its proximity to both the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii, Naples can be an ideal home base for exploring some of Italy's top tourist destinations as day trips. The city itself shouldn't be overlooked, however, as long as you're prepared to take on the challenge and you don't try to do too much. Naples sprawls away from the bay and even partway up the side of Mt. Vesuvius, which looms somewhat alarmingly, but all you need to focus on is the historic center with its ancient streets, a selection of gorgeous churches, and pretty piazzas bustling with Neapolitan life. Throw in the city's spectacular archaeological museum (where you'll find many of the treasures from Pompeii and Herculaneum, not to mention the "secret room" of ancient erotic art) and multiple restaurants serving up some of the best pizza you'll have in your life, and you've got the makings of a fantastic place to spend some time. Just keep an eye out for those scooters.