At the last minute we decided to rather do the trip to the Tatra mountains because it was thought there would not be that much to see on this trip seeing as though the castles were ruins. We were expecting to go by coach but went by car with a wonderful guide who had been a school teacher with a great depth of knowlege and love of Polish history which really enriched this experience. We went to Zagapone and visited villages with 800 year old wooden houses that look brand new, as well as the studio of a famous mountain sculptor and bought some lovely items. Went around a unique cemetary - very unusual headstones maximising use of wood from the area. Visited a large open market and would have gone up in the cable car would have been great as there was snow on the peaks, but it was being repaired. Rounded the trip off with lunch at a Hungarian restaurant with huge open fire place, perfect. I think November is just the right time to visit Krakow and environs when it is not overrun with tourists and one can really absorb all that is there to be found.

I highly recommend this trip. The iconic photos and films one has seen over the years become a real, real reality. Enroute on the coach we were shown a video with an overview of the history of the camps and I definitely became aware of facts that I had not known previously. Before the actual tour of Auschwitz started and at the end there were rushed toilet breaks and if you were lucky time to buy a coffee or postcards. You cannot dawdle and must observe your fellow travellers so that you can easily recognise them and quickly connect up otherwise the group is held up. The tours through the camps were also at a steady pace presumably to accommodate many visitors. Different tour groups visit different barracks, for the same reason. If you lag behind you lose the group while you try and recognise someone from your tour. None of this is important compared to the effect of experiencing this place and increasisng understanding of what happened here. Our guide was willing to answer questions and demeanour befitting the situation.