Seafood abounds throughout the city; sardines, dorado and sea bass come perfectly grilled, while the rich fish and seafood stew Caldeirada is spiced with chili and bulked with green vegetables, but the national dish of Portugal is cod – bacalhau – and it is served in virtually all Lisbon restaurants, whether grilled, cooked with rice and scrambled eggs, cooked au gratin or as fritters. Pork comes in many guises too; carne de porco Alentejana pairs pork with clams and roast potatoes, while the bifana is the Lisbon street food of choice, comprising layers of thinly sliced pork steak sautéed with garlic or onions and presented in a bread roll.
Rivaling cod in the popularity stakes, Caldo verde (literally ‘green soup’) is a broth made with onions, cabbage, potatoes and occasionally chourico (smoked sausage). It’s often served late at night in fado clubs, as reassuring and nourishing as fado is mournful and haunting.
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