Prague’s gritty suburb of Zizkov lies to the east of the city center and is best-known as being home to the bizarre Television Tower (Tower Park Prague), much hated when it was completed in 1992 but now regarded with affection by local residents.
Hilly Zizkov itself had its origins as a blue-collar area of the city, built in the 19th century for the workers who stoked Prague’s industrial boom. Under Soviet rule, the district became a Communist stronghold nicknamed ‘Red Zizkov’, and today it is a Bohemian district with a reputation for underground drinking dens, grungy pubs and a subversive nightlife along Borivojova, the perfect spot for pub crawls.
Thanks to its reasonable property rentals, a young and innovative workforce has started to move into Zizkov, bringing with it new hi-tech industries and a burgeoning bar and multicultural restaurant scene. There’s a farmers’ market at Jiriho z Podebrad from Wednesday through Friday, and funky art galleries are springing up in the laid-back, cobbled streets. As well as Olšanské cemetery — the biggest in Prague — the New Jewish Cemetery, the burial place of author Franz Kafka, is also found in Zizkov, along with the National Monument and the Czech Army Museum.
Prague 3. Metro Line A to Jiriho z Podebrad.