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The Li River’s reputation as the most beautiful in all China rests on a stretch totaling less than a quarter of its length; the 60-odd miles (100 kilometers) starting in Guilin and heading south. Here dramatic karst outcrops, dense vegetation and the clear, winding river itself create magical vistas which loom large in the Chinese imagination, having inspired art and verse for centuries.
Outside of the main cities, the painters and poets who so prized the river would find life going on here much as they remember it; water buffalo tilling terraced rice paddies, fishers angling off bamboo rafts, vendors in market towns selling the bounty of this fertile region.
The river is a year-round delight, just as stunning under blazing blue skies or wrapped in winter mists. From Guilin to Yangshuo there’s never a dull stretch, but most agree that the scenic high point comes about two-thirds the way along, at the area between the towns of Yangdi and Xingping.
For the farmers who reside in the Longji region of Southern China the soaring rice terraces are simply a way of life. For the thousands of annual visitors who make the two-hour journey from the city of Guilin, however, the Longji rice terraces are an iconic symbol of Chinese agriculture and one of the most photographed sites in the country.
Here in Longji, layer upon layer of cultivated terraces stretch skywards on steep slopes, at some points they slope at over 50° angles. Despite the dramatic grades of the mountainside, however, traditional Chinese rice farmers have managed to sculpt the hillside into orderly terraces which annually yield massive harvests of rice. Though there really isn’t a bad season to visit the Longji rice terraces, the early summer months of May and June are popular for photographers as this is the time of year when the terraces are irrigated and cast a mirrored effect which crawls up the walls of the valleys.
Guilin’s most famous sight is a rocky outcrop on the Li River whose natural stone arch is said to mimic the moon in water. But the whole formation is better known for its resemblance to an elephant dipping its trunk in the river, from which it derives its name, Elephant Trunk Hill - or Xiangbishan. Some poets couldn’t even wait to get home to record their thoughts on this remarkable landmark; there are calligraphic carvings right in the rock.
The effect is best observed from the water, but you can climb up into the “eye” of the elephant and down into Water Moon Cave at the river’s edge. Back on the hill, even the rustic brick Puxian Pagoda follows the prevailing theme – it is said to be the hilt of the dagger which killed the poor beast. This gruesome fantasy aside, the pagoda peak gives you a great view of the surrounding area.
Fubo Hill is also known as “Wave Subduing Hill” due to its position right on the river, interrupting the current. Like many peaks in the area it’s more a vertical rock eruption than a hill, with its peak allowing magnificent views of the city and surrounding countryside. The sheer slopes are complemented by pavilions, including a tea house.
At Fubo’s foot is the natural “Pearl-Retreating Cave” whose walls have been embellished over the centuries with Buddhist carvings and outstanding examples of Chinese calligraphy.
Inside the cave a rock pillar descends from the “roof” and hovers above the ground leaving two fingers’ worth of space. It's the subject of competing myths; decide for yourself if it resembles a sword thrust at the ground, or was in fact split by a sword-wielding general.
For a small city Yangshuo attracts a huge amount of visitors, all drawn by the stunning scenery of the local area. As in Guilin, the karst hills are often named for objects they supposedly resemble, but even if you can’t make out a man bowing to a woman, a bronze mirror or the moon, you will still be resting your eyes on some of the most breathtaking terrain on Earth.
Head to just about any spot on Yangshuo’s riverbanks and you’ll feel like you’re in a classic Chinese landscape painting, where perfectly-shaped hills recede ever paler into the distance. Hire a bamboo raft and explore the rice paddies, sub-tropical vegetation and sheer rocky peaks of the beautiful Yulong River valley for an incredible sightseeing experience.
Situated along the east banks of the Li River around 20 kilometers from Guilin City, Daxu Old Town dates back all the way to 200 AD. One of four ancient towns in Guangxi Province, Daxu features a 2.5-kilometer street paved in bluestone with well-preserved traditional houses and shops, mostly from the Ming and Qing dynasties, lining each side.
As a visitor, Daxu Old Town lends itself perfectly to taking leisurely strolls amid heritage buildings, sampling the local food, and learning about the traditional culture and customs that have been kept alive for thousands of years.
Most of Daxu Old Town’s residents are from the older generation and live simple, peaceful lives, working traditional trades, such as bamboo-weaving and shoemaking. Longevity Bridge is a must-see while in the town; this stone arch bridge was constructed in the Ming Dynasty and is a scenic place to stop and enjoy the Li River and perhaps take pictures of Snail Hill.