Day 1: Imperial Nuremberg
Explore the medieval alleyways and Gothic architecture of Nuremberg’s charming Altstadt (Old Town); start the morning with a meander through the historical exhibitions up at the fortified Castle (Kaiserburg), once seat of the Holy Roman Emperors, and pop in to the Albrecht Dürer House to see the workshop of the greatest artist of the German Renaissance. Head for the Hauptmarkt (Market Square) to twist the golden handle on the landmark Schöner Brunnen fountain for good luck and then pick a restaurant for a traditional Bavarian lunch of bratwurst and sauerkraut. Marvel at the ornate façades and medieval treasures in the Church of Our Lady (Frauenkirche) and St Lorenz Church (Lorenzkirche) before settling with a stein of beer in a pavement café.
Day 2: The Nazis and Nuremberg
Today is a day for reflection: head for the Nazi Party Rally Grounds (Reichsparteigelande), just south of the city center, to appreciate the scale of the stadia and parade grounds where Hitler held his increasingly tyrannical political rallies. If weather permits, picnic in the lakeside grounds surrounding the now-dilapidated Zeppelin Grandstand and move on to the hard-hitting anti-fascist exhibition at the Nazi Documentation Center (Dokumentationszentrum). This is located in the Congress Hall, one of the foremost examples of Nazi architecture still (more or less) intact. Turn our back on Nazi atrocities for a cheery night out among the bars and restaurants of the Old Town.
Day 3: Out and About
Explore the surrounding Bavarian countryside; maybe take a day trip to the medieval university city of Heidelberg to wander the romantic ruins of the 17th-century Renaissance castle, with a wondrous location high above the River Neckar. The lovely medieval time warp that is Rothenburg lies on the River Tauber and is also within striking distance of Nuremberg. Its 12th-century Altstadt (Old Town) is crammed with a spider’s web of perfectly preserved half-timbered townhouses, city gates and fine Gothic churches.