It’s a cliche to say that India is a land of contrasts, but however you arrive in Leh—whether by air from Delhi or overland from Manali or Srinagar—you’ll see how true this is. Leh is largely Buddhist, and the ruins of the 17th-century Tibetan-style palace dominate the cityscape. Many people arrive here and acclimatize to the 11,562-foot (3,542-meter) altitude before heading deeper and higher into Ladakh, but there are a few things to do in Leh. Wander the Old Town, shop for Tibetan trinkets in the market, and rest up while you plan your grand Ladakh adventure.
Summer is by far the most popular time to visit Leh—and the most comfortable. Between June and September it’s warm and clear (although nights are cool), and access by road is possible. To visit in spring and autumn you’ll need to fly from Delhi. Be prepared for cold temperatures and for many businesses and attractions to be closed. Winters are bitterly cold and snowy; expect nighttime temperatures of 5°F (-15°C)—not many people visit, but flights from Delhi still operate.
Leh is quite small and is easily navigable on foot. But travelers who are used to turning up at bus stations in India and immediately jumping on the next bus to their destination will find things different in Leh. Ladakh is sparsely populated and buses to many places, even popular tourist destinations, aren’t that frequent. Some routes only depart a few times a month. If you want to explore beyond Leh, it’s usually necessary to book a private car and driver or join a small-group tour.
While the easiest way of reaching Leh is by air from Delhi, travelers with more time and a generous sense of adventure should consider taking the overland route from Manali. This is only possible between June and September, depending on snowfall, but it’s a spectacular journey from the lush green hills of Himachal Pradesh, through Lahaul and Spiti, to the western edge of the Tibetan Plateau. It’s at least a 15-hour journey in a minibus and not always comfortable, but you (probably) won’t regret it.
